Tricast
Photographer's Reference Calculator
One-Stop Shop to Optimize Camera Settings
📐 What is Tricast?
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Tricast is a hands-on reference and learning tool for photographers at any level. Dial in your current camera settings and Tricast tells you exactly how many stops to adjust to nail your exposure — or use it to understand why each setting works the way it does. Every tab solves a different real-world problem you face in the field.

Exposure Triangle
Enter your current aperture, shutter, and ISO. Tricast reads your exposure and tells you how many stops to shift each setting to correct it.
Depth of Field
Find out exactly how much of your scene will be in focus — and at what distance — for any lens, aperture, and sensor combination.
ND Filter
Put an ND filter on your lens and instantly see your new shutter speed. Essential for waterfalls, seascapes, and long-exposure work.
Star Trail
Calculate how long to expose for a given trail arc, how many frames to stack, and the maximum shutter for sharp point-like stars.
Dial in any aperture, shutter speed, and ISO combination. Tricast shows you the resulting exposure value, what kind of scene it suits, and what each adjustment would do to your image — so you can make an informed creative choice.
Scenario Presets
ApertureThe opening in your lens. Lower f-number (f/1.8) = wider opening = more light + shallower focus. Higher f-number (f/16) = smaller opening = less light + more in focus.
Controls depth of field & light intake f/5.6
Shutter SpeedHow long the sensor is exposed to light. Faster (1/1000s) = freezes motion. Slower (1s+) = blurs motion. Slower also means more light reaches the sensor.
Controls motion blur & light duration 1/125s
ISOYour sensor's sensitivity to light. Higher ISO = brighter image in the dark, but adds grain (noise). Always use the lowest ISO that gives a good exposure.
Controls sensor sensitivity & noise ISO 400
Current Exposure Value
EV 12.0EV (Exposure Value) is a single number for how bright your exposure is. Higher = brighter. EV 0 is very dark; EV 15 is bright sunlight.
Bright cloudy day / open shade
← darker brighter →
Mid-range brightness
What each adjustment would do
New to exposure? Learn how the triangle works ↓
Enter your lens, aperture, and focus distance to see exactly how much of your scene will be sharp — and where to focus to maximise depth of field for your sensor.
Sensor Size
Scenario Presets
ApertureThe opening in your lens. Lower f-number = wider = shallower depth of field. Higher f-number = narrower = more of the scene in focus.f/5.6
Focal LengthThe zoom level of your lens in millimetres. Longer focal lengths (200mm+) compress perspective and produce shallower depth of field. Wider lenses (14–35mm) keep more in focus.50mm
Focus DistanceHow far away your subject is. Closer subjects = shallower depth of field. Further subjects = more of the scene in focus.3.0m
Near Limit
—
Far Limit
—
Total DOF
—
Hyperfocal
—
New to depth of field? Learn what these numbers mean ↓
Hyperfocal tip
Focus at the hyperfocal distance to maximise depth of field — everything from half that distance to infinity will be acceptably sharp.
Set your base exposure (what the camera reads without the filter), choose your ND strength, and instantly see your new long-exposure shutter speed.
Scenario Presets
Common ND Filters
Base Shutter SpeedThe shutter speed your camera meters without any filter attached. Measure this first, then put the ND on — Tricast calculates the new speed.1/125s
Your exposure without the filter
ND StrengthHow many stops of light the filter blocks. Each stop doubles the exposure time. 10 stops = ND1000 = roughly 1000× longer shutter speed.10 stops
Filter density in stops
New Shutter Speed
—
With ND1000 applied
Stop Reduction
10 stops
Filter Factor
ND1000
New to ND filters? Learn how they work ↓
Set your desired trail arc and focal length — Tricast calculates total exposure time, frames to stack, and the maximum shutter speed for sharp point-like stars.
Scenario Presets
Desired Trail ArcHow far you want the stars to streak across the sky, in degrees. 30° is a visible trail. 180° is a dramatic half-circle. 360° is a full circle — takes 24 hours.30°
How much the stars should streak
Your LatitudeWhere you are on Earth. Stars near the poles rotate slowly and make tight circles. Near the equator they make long arcs. Your latitude affects how fast the sky appears to move.45°N
Affects apparent rotation speed
Focal LengthThe zoom level of your lens. Wider lenses (14–24mm) capture more sky and are better for trails. Longer lenses show fewer stars but make each trail appear more dramatic.24mm
For the 500 and NPF rule calculations
Exposure for Trail
—
Single exposure time
Frames to Stack
—
Rotation / min
0.25°
Sharp Star Rules ↓ show
New to star trails? Learn the technique ↓
Understanding the Exposure Triangle ↓

The exposure triangle is the relationship between aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. Every correct exposure is a balance of all three — change one and you must compensate with another to maintain the same brightness.

Aperture (f-stop)
The opening in the lens. A wider aperture (lower f-number like f/1.8) lets in more light and produces a shallower depth of field. A narrower aperture (higher f-number like f/16) lets in less light but keeps more of the scene in focus.
Shutter Speed
How long the sensor is exposed to light. A fast shutter (1/1000s) freezes motion. A slow shutter (1s or longer) blurs movement — useful for waterfalls, star trails, or light trails. Camera shake is a risk at slow speeds without a tripod.
ISO
The sensor's sensitivity to light. Higher ISO allows shooting in darker conditions but introduces digital noise — grain in the image. Always use the lowest ISO that gives a correct exposure for the cleanest result.
Exposure Value (EV)
A single number representing the combined brightness of your exposure. EV 0 is very dark. EV 15 is bright sunlight. Changing any triangle side by 1 stop changes EV by 1 — the others must compensate to hold the same scene brightness.

One stop of light is a doubling or halving: f/2.8 to f/4 is one stop darker; 1/125s to 1/250s is one stop darker; ISO 400 to ISO 800 is one stop brighter.

A Note on Accuracy ↓

Tricast provides estimates and reference values based on typical scenarios. Actual results may vary depending on your camera, lens, environment, and personal technique. Always test and adjust settings in real conditions. Use this tool as a guide, not a strict rule.

After the shoot
Done planning? Start your edit in Lumecast →
Lumecast



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